The Gear for Gals in Pakistan project will help the Pakistan Youth Outreach (PYO) impact young Pakistani women’s lives by empowering them through the skills and confidence they learn mountaineering. The gear will help PYO continue to train more and more women as climbers, and organize and execute all-women expeditions. These growing number of women mountaineers will inspire other women in Pakistan to participate in adventure sports and alpine climbing. It will also show women that they can be self-reliant, strong, confident and ambitious; encouraging young women not to be limited by societal constraints, but to challenge the status quo and strive for equality. The aim is to influence Pakistani society as a whole to think of women as equal members. This project was not just about climbing, but to bring greater rights to women in Pakistan. Climbing and the outdoors is just one avenue. Helping one woman gain self-reliance and independence through mountaineering in turn helps many more. And we have done that through this project.

My journey to bring the donated gear to the PYO began in Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan. Islamabad, meaning Abode of Islam, is Pakistan’s government and financial center. It’s an affluent city built 40 years ago at the base off the Margalla Hills. The capital city, about the size of Seattle, is reminiscent of Bellevue, Washington immaculately kept sidewalks lined with trees, large forested parks, 3 story homes with multiple Mercedes parked out front.

Upon arriving in Islamabad, I met with Mirza Ali and Samina Baig, the directors of the Pakistan Youth Outreach. Samina Baig is the first Pakistani woman mountaineer. She has been systemically climbing larger and larger mountains in Northern Pakistan, including a few first ascents Starting in the summer of 2012, Samina will be making her first attempt of an 8000m peak.

Mirza and Samina introduced me to the wonderful folks at the Alpine Club of Pakistan who have been very supportive of the Pakistan Youth Outreach’s goal to bring more women into mountaineering. Then we had lunch and I was able to interview Samina on her experience as a woman climbing in Pakistan and     her upcoming goals. Also, at this time I delivered the donated women’s climbing to Mirza’s Pakistan Youth Outreach office.

That evening Mirza and I took the 26 hour bus ride up the Karakoram Highway to the town of Karimabad in northern Pakistan. We were traveling to Mirza’s hometown of Shimshal, his base camp for the 3-day women’s mountaineering courses he runs in January. Shimshal, a mountain village of 125 people, is deep in the heart of central Asia, only a 6 day walk from the China border. Until 2003 the road only extended as far as Passu, from there villagers or trekkers had to walk 4 long days to reach the Shimshal valley and the town that bares its name. Today, the journey seems almost easy compared to 2003. From Karimabad, we drove for a couple of hours to Attabad Lake, took a 2 hour boat ride across then a 4 hour drive on tiny mountain roads to reach Mirza’s home in the Shimshal valley, surrounded on all sides by towering 7,000m peaks.

The land around Shimshal is harsh and dry; rocky and desolate mountains and valleys comprise these southern mountains of the Karakoram range. Even the rivers in the upper Hunza region don’t seem to provide much nourishment or moisture to the land. The Shimshal village, at 10,500 feet, is the highest settlement in the Hunza valley region. The Shimshali people rely on pastures situated high above the village to feed their animals during the spring, summer and early fall months.

During my stay in the village, I had the pleasure of staying with Mirza’s family in their modest home. In Shimshal, life is the same as it was hundreds of years ago. People live in mud constructed homes with yak wool blankets laid on the dirt floor. Homes are laid out with 4 walls, one roof, and one larger communal room that serves all purposes – eating, sleeping, socializing. The locals work year round as herders. Life revolves around the cycles of mother nature and the needs of the herd animals. Every spring half of the village travels up to the high pastures (at an elevation of 15,000 feet) to graze their sheep, goats and yaks. These villagers stay at the high pasture with the animals for 5-6 months. In early October, when the snows begin to fall on Shimshal Pass, the villagers bring their herds down. They remain in the village until the snows melt in the spring, and then again journey to the high pastures to graze the live stock. Even with the Shimshali people’s focus on the cycles of snow and summer, they still place heavy emphasis on education and schooling. Families spend their lives saving so that their children can attend college in Islamabad or Karachi or Lahore.

Shimshal became Mirza’s mountaineering school base camp because it is close to a number of glaciers and easily climbed peaks. Also, he knows the mountains and region well. I spent a few days in this earthy and simple town meeting with the members of Mirza’s climbing staff and a number of women who hope to participate this coming winter in the climbing classes. The Shimshal villagers were warm and inviting – welcoming me to their town with smiles and handshakes that melted away any uncertainties. They are curious about foreigners, but also not naive about the outside world. “I sleep at day time. I’m up all night listening to the news from your capital in Urdu,” Mirza’s middle uncle told me, sticking out his chest with pride.

In Pakistan, when you are a ã ãÇä, (meh-maan) or guest, it does not matter what country you are from. It does not matter if the Pakistani government has good relations with your country of origin. You are a guest and are treated with the utmost respect. You are welcomed, placed at the position of honor during meals, and everyone in the town MUST welcome you (a desire not a requirement). So be prepared to eat many meals, visit many homes and drink cup of tea after cup of tea. It is custom. In Shimshal, they do it with a big smile and a warm handshake. A far cry from the media induced fear that surrounds the word “Pakistan.”

The highlight of my trip to this “axis of evil country” was meeting the women who participated in Mirza’s climbing programs and women who are excited to take part this next year. This project focused on impacting a few women who will pay it forward to women next year. The climbing gear I brought to the Pakistan Youth Outreach will help Mirza continue his important work of empowering women in Pakistan and changing Pakistani’s perception of women.

More women in Pakistan will be learning independence and confidence in themselves thanks to Mirza’s programs. And this is thanks to all of you who helped make this project possible!

Till next adventure……

–Genevieve Hathaway (Founder and Project Leader).